SO… HOW’S EVERYTHING BEEN GOING?
Très bien*! It has absolutely flown by, and I can’t believe I only have a few weeks left. There’s still so much on my (ever-growing) to-do list! The first month was wonderful but a bit intense as I was working remotely and was also doing daily immersion classes. So I was cramming in most of my sightseeing on the weekends.
I’ve just finished my French lessons now and am feeling much more relaxed. My best friend arrives this week and I finally have some time off work, so that will be lots of fun.
I’m loving Paris and am very happy with the bobo* area I am in (Voltaire, in the 11th) as it’s central and a short stroll to Place des Vosges. Paris’s oldest (and prettiest) square is one of my absolute favourite spots for lounging with a coffee and croissant. Or une glace* now it’s so warm.
ANY HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?
So many. Every successful interaction en français*; watching the light projections at le Square du Vert-Galant for Nuit Blanche*; seeing a classical concert at La Sainte-Chapelle with the sun streaming in through the famous stained glass windows (a must); perusing le Musée Picasso – the current exhibition with art direction by Paul Smith is incredible, but just as amazing is the 17th-century private mansion it’s housed in – divine.
Also, my first pain au chocolat; visiting Versailles and the equally impressive Opéra Garnier; strolling Canal St Martin; thumbing through books at the legendary Shakespeare and Company bookstore; dinner in the most stunning garden at l’Hôtel Particulier in Montmartre. The service was questionable, but the location is so breathtakingly beautiful it was worth the 90-odd minute wait for our entrées.
I also loved the tranquil garden (and mint green tiles) at the Grand Mosquée. An unexpected side of Paris and well worth a visit.
There have been times when I’ve been moved to tears by the sheer beauty (and Frenchness) of it all. I still grin from ear to ear whenever I see La Tour Eiffel. Seeing this accordion player and his cat in Montmartre today was more than I could take. And I’ve also met some lovely people along the way.
AND LOWLIGHTS?
That’s not to say it’s been easy. It hasn’t. There were a few issues with my Airbnb when I arrived (terrible bed, for starters), but I am lucky to have a great property manager who dealt with my list of complaints promptly. The neighbours tend to have parties at unpredictable times (say 2am on a Monday). Juggling work and school has been exhausting, I’ve been sick and I’ve had a lot of FOMO.
Mon chat me manque beaucoup*. But, in a strange twist of fate, there’s a cat café on my street (yes, I did go once after a bad day. The food was hideous, but I made a friend who lives in London).
I also had un incident malheureux* involving a very long, stressful and rainy day, a traditional Jewish fallafel sandwich from the iconic L'As du Fallafel in Le Marais and a day-old Sézane trench coat. One trip au pressing*, $60 and a two-week wait later, I got my coat back just as summer finally arrived.
HAS ANYTHING SURPRISED YOU?
The lack of screw-top wine bottles anywhere. That the French seemingly have a thing for escape rooms (there’s a surprising number in my quartier). That you’ll have to queue not just for museums but to go into stores like Polène and Sézane.
Also, Parisians are nothing like the aloof stereotype we’re familiar with. 90% of my interactions have been positive and, as long as you’re polite, decisive (they don’t like dilly-dallying) and try to speak French, they’re quite chaleureux* and helpful.
YOU ENROLLED IN AN IMMERSION OVER THERE. HOW WAS THAT?
It was chouette*. I went to Langue Appart in Oberkampf (11th) – a 10-minute walk from my apartment. I would definitely recommend it, it’s a great little school. The teachers are excellent (they all have a different teaching style from what I’ve heard), and all the staff welcome you by name. The materials are very comprehensive, it’s all conducted in French and the lessons are a mix of grammar (argh), videos, games and lots of speaking practice and practical exercises.
There are also a few social activities: drinks; an excursion – we learned all about La Commune and the history of the artsy 20th arrondissement and Père-Lachaise; and an international ‘picnic’ held indoors (I went to three stores only to be forced to make Anzac biscuits with honey instead of golden syrup… not the same).
However, you really do need to be motivated. The students come from all over the globe and are predominantly young, well-educated and highly intelligent (lots of med and law students in my batch). If you slack off, you’ll very quickly feel out of your depth.
ARE YOU FEELING MORE CONFIDENT WITH FRENCH?
Hmmm, bonne question*. I think I had an unrealistic expectation of how much I’d learn by osmosis over here. I now realise I would need a good six months of full immersion to be anywhere even close to fluent.
After having done the intensive course, all the tenses are a lot clearer in my head. My reading is better (but that’s always been my strength) and my listening has improved, largely from eavesdropping on people. However, speaking… I still struggle a lot. (Having said that, immediately after writing this the lady at the métro station complimented me on my French and made my day.)
The number of times I’ve walked off only to realise I said something incorrectly in conversation is higher than I’d like to admit. But I’ve been trying and, by and large, the French have been quite supportive – if a little amused at times (especially at the chemist).
When shop assistants realise you’re not French, they’ll sometimes ask if you’d prefer them to speak in English or French. I find this really helpful and always opt for French. However, there are many more who’ll automatically switch to English. In which case I just keep trying to answer in French to get them to revert back :).
HAVE YOU BEEN ENJOYING THE FRENCH CUISINE?
Far too much! I’m particularly partial to galettes. However, the extremely carb-heavy French diet is less than ideal for a type 1 diabetic... I’m also desperate for some spice in my life, so have booked a Mexican restaurant for when I’m in London next week.
WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO FOR THE REST OF YOUR STAY?
Ma meilleure amie* arrives soon, and I can’t wait to play tourist (and directionally challenged tour guide). I had another friend here from Sweden for a weekend which was so lovely, but other than that I’ve largely been flying solo. It’s been fine during the day, but I’m looking forward to more nighttime exploring.
I’m also excited to see Paris through a fresh set of eyes now I’m a ‘local’.
*nearly 5 weeks | *Very well! | *short for bourgeois-bohemian (hipster)| *an ice cream | *in French | *White Night | *I miss my cat a lot | *an unfortunate incident | *to the dry cleaners | *warm | *great | *good question | *My best friend
